The BBC has offered a voice to Khachapuri, a Georgian.


The BBC has offered a voice to Khachapuri, a Georgian.

BBC reporter David Farley went to Georgia and wrote an article about him.

“Georgia, a Caucasus country bordering Armenia, azerbaijan, Russia and Turkey,” Khachapuri “is a thick, addictive, cheesy cheesecake that is everywhere. Except for the funeral.

If you’re in a bad mood or sad… You shouldn’t even touch the dough.

“If you are sad or sad, when you are sad for the death of a loved one, or when your heart is broken, you should never touch the dough. Just stay away from it, “said my friend Mako Kavtaradze, a stranger in tbilisi and executive director of Spy Recipe, a Georgian dressing company. “If you’re in a bad mood, we can tell you when to try the khachapuri you made.”

We ate a dairy and carbohydrate bomb at a roadside restaurant in the Rikoti pass in central Georgia, not far from the town of salome, where the ancient jewish community was located. This version comes from an area near Imereti: a 1-inch thick double-layer dough stuffed with soft cheese.

But I’m skeptical of the claim that kraft tarazawa has a connection between human emotion and cheese bread.

To prove her point, Kavtaradze stood up from the table and headed for the kitchen. “Come on,” she said. “I want to tell you the woman who does this, I promise, she will be as delicious as this khachapuri.”

At the back of the kitchen, a round woman was sitting next to a chair, with a pile of freshly kneaded dough, rolling out the desert surani cheese for khachapuri. She raised her head and smiled at us, and the two strangers might not have broken into her work space. “Look,” Kavtaradze said. “She was happy.”

If khachapuri is created by happy people, it also makes consumers very happy. This is the perfect comfort food.

In Georgia, people have never been far from the dough. Everything from corner bakeries to fancy restaurants serves snacks. While some versions of it are pizza, a recent poll found that 88 percent of georgians still like pizza. Indeed, khachapuri is so popular that economists have created the khachapuri index, inspired by the economist’s “big MAC index”. In the case of the Caucasian, Georgia economists by tracking the production and consumption of khachapuri main component to monitor inflation: flour, cheese, butter, eggs, milk and yeast.

Although khachapuri is important to Georgian cuisine, food scholars and historians do not seem to agree with its origins. But according to Dali Tsatava, a food writer and former food professor at the Georgian culinary institute in tbilisi, khachapuri is probably a cousin of pizza. “Roman soldiers are passing through the black sea region, bringing in recipes like pizza,” she said. When we were sitting in a cafe in central tbilisi, she said. “Tomatoes didn’t appear in Europe until the sixteenth century, so it was just toasted bread and cheese, not like khachapuri.”

Almost all of Georgia has its own variant khachapuri, which translates directly to fake cheese bread, as the often used chkinti cheese is cheese. I’ve mostly tried the most popular type, Imeruli (from the Imereti region), which looks a lot like pizza bianca from a distance. But in my week, I had a taste of kubdari in Tbislisi’s Aripana, a meat dish from Svaneti. In Megruli khachapuri from Samegrelo district, full of cheese (like Imeruli khachapuri), and then drizzled with more melted cheese; Eat a version stuffed with spinach and mashed potatoes called Khabidzgina khachapuri. All this turned out to be a delicious style of toast and cheese that georgians were apparently happy and satisfied with.

Tsatava responded to what Kavtaradze had said earlier: “you can guess the character of the baker who makes khachapuri. It’s like a mirror of a person’s emotions. ”

But, according to everyone I speak of, happiness is not the only quality required to produce a khachapuri. As Kavtaradze told me that day, as we walked down the busy Rustaveli street in tbilisi, “you have to talk to your khachapuri.” I gave her a strange look. “For example, when you knead the dough, you have to talk about it verbally, as if it were your baby. ”

I tested it at Sakhachapuren 1 in the middle of tbilisi, a place that was both comfortable and modern, and chef Maka Chikhiashvili agreed to teach me how to make a version called Adjaruli khachapuri. It is no coincidence that the shape of the bread that melts the cheese is shaped. Chikhiashvili handed me an apron, and she said the Adjaruli khachapuri reflected the geography and culture of the region. “Azara is on the black sea, and that is why bread is shaped like a ship. Eggs represent the sun, and cheese is the sea. The people in this area are great builders. “

She grabbed a softball-sized dough, began kneading the dough, and finally smoothed it out, cooing away. I asked Kavtaradze what she was talking about. “This is… “She paused. “It’s too personal. I can’t translate it. ”

A few seconds later it was my turn. I took a deep breath and tried to touch my inner peace. I began to smooth it out, remembering that I needed to talk to it, reminding myself that I wanted to be a baby. “You’re a good piece of dough,” I said. Everyone in the kitchen nodded. “Who is the good dough? That’s right; You are! “In the end I made the dough into an oval shape and tapered off. The cook borrowed a handle to make it into the correct shape.

Pizza crust. I put the bread in the oven. The cook took five fingers and roasted them for several minutes. At the same time, Chhihiashvili elaborated on the attention needed to make khachapuri: “we have five women here making our dough and khachapuri,” she said. “If one or two of them are in a bad mood, they will take on another responsibility. The dough will be too heavy, not soft, or should be elastic. ”

After a few minutes, we scrape off the extra dough from a partially baked ship and form an inner edge around the edges. Then we added the cheese to make sure it was almost overflowing. Back in the oven for four minutes, the only thing to do is add a raw egg on top, add a bigger butter, stir, and start eating one of the most delicious things on the planet.

I tore off a piece of crumbly bread and began with a tapered end and dipped it into eg.

I looked at the cook and said, “you must be a very happy person,” the article said.


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